ORGANIC COMPOST(s) ; TYPES OF ORGANIC COMPOST

 

ORGANIC COMPOST(s)

 

    Manure is organic matter that is used as organic fertilizer in agriculture. Most manure consists of animal feces; other sources include compost and green manure. Manures contribute to the fertility of soil by adding organic matter and nutrients, such as nitrogen, that are utilised by bacteria, fungi and other organisms in the soil. Higher organisms then feed on the fungi and bacteria in a chain of life that comprises the soil food web

Compost  is organic matter that has been decomposed in a process called composting. This process recycles various organic materials otherwise regarded as waste products and produces a soil conditioner (the compost). Compost is rich in nutrients. composting is an important part of organic gardening. Depending on the methods used, compost can be a suitable alternative to synthetic chemical fertilizers and other soil amendments. While chemical fertilizers provide a quick boost to spurt plant growth, they tend to be low in micronutrients, minerals and beneficial organisms that plants need for long-term growth. Although compost is made of organic materialAt the simplest level, the process of composting requires making a heap of wet organic matter (also called green waste), such as leaves, grass, and food scraps, and waiting for the materials to break down into humus after a period of months. However, composting can also take place as a multi-step, closely monitored process with measured inputs of water, air, and carbon- and nitrogen-rich materials. The decomposition process is aided by shredding the plant matter, adding water and ensuring proper aeration by regularly turning the mixture when open piles or "windrows" are used. Fungi, earthworms and other detritivores further break up the material. 

 

TYPES OF ORAGANIC COMPOST

Aerobic Composting

With aerobic composting, air is introduced to help break down materials quickly. The compost needs to be turned every few days. This is where a “tumble” style of composter can save a lot of time and effort. Add scraps, then turn the handle or spin the composter to keep it aerated. You will probably want to add plenty of green matter that contains lots of nitrogen, such as grass clippings. As the bacteria break down the high-nitrogen-content scraps, the temperature of the compost will get higher. This speeds the process. Also, moisture may need to be added from a hose or watering can. The odors from aerobic composting will be bad if you don’t keep it moist and forget to turn it frequently. Also, you need to leave lots of air space in the composter. The heat produced in aerobic composting is sufficient to kill harmful bacteria and pathogens as these organisms are not adapted to these environmental conditions. It also helps support the growth of beneficial bacteria species including psychrophilic, mesophilic, and thermophilic bacteria which thrive at the higher temperature levels.

Anaerobic Composting

You can tell, just by looking at the word, that anaerobic is the opposite of aerobic. Anaerobic composting takes almost no effort at all. Just chuck scraps into a compost pile or composter, and don’t fuss with it for a year or more.
However, hold your nose! Anaerobic composting stinks to high heaven. Without oxygen, some pretty nasty bacteria take over. This is what happens in a landfill, and it’s not healthy. Landfills produce so much methane, they can actually have explosions! Methane is a greenhouse gas that is bad for the environment. Many a garden party has been spoilt by a stinking, neglected anaerobic composter!

Anaerobic composting works best with nitrogen-rich materials as they are mainly wet, but almost any organic material can be processed in an anaerobic composter such as waste paper and cardboard, grass cuttings, left over food, animal slurries and manure, etc, or any other type of feedstock that has a particularly high water content.

But it is important to avoid adding too much carbon rich materials such as dry leaves, sawdust and woody garden waste. A high concentration of these types of dry materials will retard or even halt the anaerobic composting process either killing of the anaerobic microbes completely producing a smelly mess or turn it into an aerobic composting pile.

Unlike conventional aerobic composting, anaerobic composting is a low temperature process so the compost pile will not heat up due to the high percentage of liquid. So any pathogens, diseases or weed seeds present within the mixture may not be killed in the fermentation process. However, the pathogens will gradually disappear over time due to the hostile environment.

Since the biological process of anaerobic composting happens naturally in the absence of oxygen, it is effectively a controlled and sealed version of the anaerobic breakdown of organic waste which occurs naturally in landfill sites. The wet biomass feedstock is sealed in containers allowing the anaerobic bacterial microbes to thrive in an oxygen free environment as liquid composting.

The anaerobic digestion of the feedstock happens naturally over time, producing a useful biogas, usually methane, that can be collected and used to generate electricity or heat. However, over-exposure to oxygen impedes the anaerobic micro-organisms from multiplying and slows down efficient composting.

 

Vermicomposting

Vermicomposting, or worm composting, turns kitchen scraps and other green waste into a rich, dark soil that smells like earth and feels like magic. Made of almost pure worm castings, it’s a sort of super compost. Not only is it rich in nutrients but it’s also loaded with the microorganisms that create and maintain healthy soil. Clemson University Extension lists the following benefits of vermicompost in their article on worm composting:

 

·         provides nutrients to the soil

·         increases the soil’s ability to hold nutrients in a plant-available form

·         improves the soil structure’

·         improves the aeration and internal drainage of heavy clay soils

·         increases the water holding ability of sandy soils

·         provides numerous beneficial bacteria

 

Because it’s usually made in modest quantities, vermicompost is often used as top or side dressing for one’s most demanding and deserving plants. Mixed with regular compost it adds a boost to garden soil. Blended with potting soil, it invigorates plants growing in containers, outside or in (properly made vermicompost has a slight, natural smell and is perfectly suitable for indoor use).

In general, having a worm bin requires very little attention. Worms are surprisingly low-maintenance housemates. They don’t need to be fed every day, they make no noise, and their bins only need to be cleaned every three to six months. They can make for a fascinating learning experience for kids that not only includes biology with one of their favorite creatures, but also wider environmental lessons. Composting with worms isn’t just good for plants. It’s also good for the planet. It keeps food waste and other organic material out of our trash and reduces use of landfills. 

Vermicomposting uses worms, oxygen and moisture to safely break down organic material with few odors. Basically, worms do most of the heavy lifting, and bacteria also helps. Red worms are favorites for this type of composting. Vermicomposting is preferable to the other two methods, for these reasons:

·         Very little odor (it should smell “earthy”)

·         Very little, if any, dangerous anaerobic bacteria and methane

·         No need to “turn” frequently

·         Can be done indoors or outdoors

·         Easy to harvest the fertilizer, especially with a tray-based composter

·         Kids love taking care of the worms

·         Takes minutes a week

·         Worms become part of the household and work for you